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Chameleon Food Preferences

chameleons

Many of our customers buy feeder insects to feed to their chameleons.  We get pictures of their babies all of the time and we started keeping them on the walls here.  Over time those pictures of various reptiles, fish, frogs, birds, chickens and pet insects took over an entire hallway wall and the walls of two offices.

I tell you this because I know that our customer’s pets are important to them and they are important to us.  I started staring at some of the pictures of the chameleon that one of our customers sent back in 2010 and I realized that I never wrote anything about what Chameleons eat.  We have a ton of customers that buy feeders for chameleons but I never wrote a single word about what they like best.

One of the questions we often get via email, is “what do chameleon’s eat?”  Well, I will tell you what chameleons eat in this article.

Chameleons eat many different types of insects while in captivity.  In fact, they should probably be provided a variety of insects so that they can get what they need from the various insects.  For instance, fat and minerals from wax worms, and protein from crickets and worms.  Chameleons relish variety.

One of the things that I have heard from my customers over the years is that chameleons have a propensity to develop certain vitamin deficiencies over time because of the dietary restrictions caused by living in captivity.  For instance, not enough of the right kind of light can cause vitamin D3 issues.   Many chameleons also suffer from vitamin A deficiency.

Many of the nutritional deficiencies can be stopped or corrected by offering a variety of insects and by gut loading and dusting those insects with a nutritonal powder.

Some of the insects that chameleons devour readily, and that can also be easily gut loaded and dusted are:

 

 

  • Crickets:
    Crickets are a staple in chameleon diets.  We feed our crickets vegetables and Mazuri Cricket Diet to ensure that our crickets are getting a well balanced diet so that they can become part of a well balanced diet for chameleons.  You should feed them broccoli, green leafy foods and a good grain diets like Mazuri Cricket Diet which used to be called Purina Worm Chow.

 

  • Flies:  Chameleons love flies. They eat them in their natural habitat readily.  We sell Blue Bottle Fly Larva (spikes) that can be grown into flies so that your chameleons can have them as a treat.  You can dust them easily and  feed them as needed.

 

  • Tomato Hornworms:   They are shipped to you alive, in plastic containers with enough food to get them to the size you need for your chameleon.  Do not feed them tomato plants or they will become poisonous.

 

  • Silkworms:  Although we do not grow or sell silkworms at this point, I do recommend making silkworms part of your cham’s diet.   These days you can buy eggs and grow the silkworms on artificial diet or you can feed them fresh Mulberry leaves if you have a large tree, and the tree is making leaves.  Just know that once you feed silkworms fresh Mulberry leaves, you will not be able to go back to artificial diet.

 

  • Waxworms:   We grow and sell waxworms and we will soon have 32 ounce wax worm cultures for our customers to buy so that they can grow the wax worms to the size they need for their pets.  We will not treat these culture, which means that they will be more active. This also means that they will spin cocoons, which is something that treated waxworms do not do.  On the flip side, not treating wax worms, keeps them more active so they move faster and climb and that will entice chameleons to eat.  The one caviat is that waxworms should not be used as a staple food.  They should be fed sparingly, as a treat or to help put weight on a sickly Cham.   They larva can should be dusted with a vitamin powder.

 

  • Mealworms:  Mealworms are a great food for chameleons.  Mealworms are the larva of a beetle alled Tenebrio Molitor.   They can be gut-loaded and dusted to help increase nutrional value.

 

  • Cockroaches:   As with most of the feeder items on this list, you can buy cockroaches from us or any number of vendors online.  We currently have 25 different varieties of cockroaches breeding at any one time.  Some climb, so don’t.  Some cockroaches grow large and some are the size of fruit flies when they hatch.  You can purchase a few and  keep them warm and well fed and you will have a constant supply of roaches after a few months.   Try a couple species of roach to see if you Cham goes for them.  Once you find a species that he/she prefers then breed that type, dust and gutload them and have another item in your food variety arsenal.

There are so many great feeders coming on the market.  For instance, we will soon have Firebrats and curly-wing houseflies for sale, and Lesser Wax Worms moths which are also a great food for smaller Chameleons.

Remember, variety is key in the diet of a chameleon, and common sense efforts must be made to ensure that they are getting all of the vitamins and minerals that they need through gut-loading and dusting that variety of insects.

Perhaps it is time to come up with a chameleon feeder insect variety pack.  What are your toughts on this idea?  I would love to hear from you.

 

We rarely promote other people’s books or products on our blog but this is a very good introduction to Chameleons for about $10 that I bought a while back and you might enjoy.
Click Here!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a link to free guide that will also help you learn more about chameleons.

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What is in my Worm Composting Bin?

Invariably, no matter how faithful you are at guarding your worm bin, critters will get into your worm composting bin.  Those critters run from harmless and benign to downright repulsive and harmful.

There are many critters that actually help your worm bin thrive.

Isopods and springtails are a couple of compost bin invaders that actually help break down food waste into nutrient rich worm and critter castings.  They are good inhabitants and should be kept, if possible.

 

There there are the not so great worm composting bin critters.  Those are bugs and mammals that attack worms, eat their cocoons or compete with them for food.

 

Roach
Roach

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some of those harmful pests of your compost bin are mice, rats, roaches moles, earwigs, mites, flies, centipedes roaches and ants and millipedes.

Kill roaches where you find them and remove the bin to an outdoor area immediately if they are found in your worm bin.  Call a pest control specialist if you believe that you have roaches in your house.  The worm bin most likely did not bring the roaches in.  They were probably attracted to your worm bin because it was moist, warm and filled with things that they like to eat.

 

Mice and rats will feed on food in your composting bin and not usually the Redworms themselves.  They will eat the food meant for the worms, they will tunnel through the worm bedding and they will use your composting bin covers as nesting material.  There are humane traps on the market that can help you get rid of mice and rats.

 

Moles are also a major pain and they will invade your worm beds from the bottom, tunnel through the bed and feast on the worms.  You will have to poison, trap or kill moles or you will lose your worms.

 

Earwig
Earwigs
Centipede
Centipede

 

Millipedes and centipedes will eat small worms and cocoons.  Smush them when you see them.  The same goes for nasty earwigs.  Have gloves on hand and smash them between your thumb and forefinger when you come across them in your worm composter.

Ants will also compete for food and they will carry the food away to their ant world.

Flies will not carry your worm bedding contents away but they will lay eggs in the worm compost bedding and the larvae will hatch and eat the food and make a stinking mess of your worm bin.

Pests are drawn to food.  The only way to stop them is to keep your area clean, keep the worms indoors, or have a tight fitting lid on your worm beds/bins so that nothing can get into your worm bedding.

Practice common sense composting and keep your area open and clean. Debris provides hiding places for vermin and the vermin will then be attracted to your worm bin.

 

 

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Firebrats are Breeding, Babies are Hatching. Firebrats For Sale Soon!

live firebrats

We are generating a new generation of Firebrats every two weeks from the culture that we highlighted a couple of months ago (That Firebrat post is here).  We set up a small culture using dollar store items to create the habitat.

We created a Firebrat incubator out of a large cooler, hooked up a thermostat to it and hooked the thermostat to a heat emitter bulb used to warm reptiles.

This video is of that same culture which is now swarming with baby Firebrats.  We have started several other cultures from that Firebrat culture.

We will have Firebrats for sale shortly.  We have thousands breeding and hatching every day.  We look forward to servicing your Firebrat needs very soon.

What are the secrets of culturing Firebrats (Thermobia domestica)?  Well, heat is very important.  95 to about 105 degrees seems to be the best range.

Firebrats need a source of humidity but they do not do well if their home is moist.  They need airflow and a bowl of Cricket Crystals to maintain just enough humidity, which helps them shed as they grow.

Firebrats need a constand source of food.  We keep fish flakes in a bowl, as you will see in the video, at all times.

You will need cotton balls for the adult Firebrats to lay eggs in.  The eggs will hatch after about two weeks at 95 degrees.

If you are looking to breed and care for your own Firebrats just drop us a line or ask your questions here.

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Zebra Isopod Care Sheet

Roach Care Sheet

Isopod Care Sheet:

   Zebra Isopods

  Armadillidium maculatum

 

Common and Scientific
Name
Zebra
Isopods


  Armadillidium
maculatum
Breeding Information and
Defining Characteristics

They will breed readily if their requirements are meant. This isopod likes a drier substrate with drier leaves but with a moist retreat.  They love fish flakes and fresh vegetables.  They also like it warmer than many isopods.  If you keep them between 75 and 85
degrees they will breed well.  Lightly mist the enclosure weekly but to not make wet.

 

Feeding Preferences Fish food flakes, fresh vegetables, dried
tree leaves.
Housing Requirements
Zebra Isopods will do well in a shoe box or any container or aquarium with a lid to keep out pests,
flies, spiders and that sort of thing.
Difficulty Rearing
Medium difficulty because of the substrate  requirements.
Lifespan
8 to 12 months which comes from us tracking individual breeders over time.
Substrate
Peat moss or Coconut Coir bedding.  With a covering of dried leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
They like it on the warm side, which is
between 75 and 85 degrees.  You can easily reach this temp by keeping them near furnace, on a refrigerator or on
top of a heating pad made for reptiles or plants.  I
have linked to a couple as a reference.
Pictures

 

 Zebra Isopod 

Care Video

Video

 

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Red Head Roach Care Sheet

red head roaches

Roach Care Sheet

Roach Care Sheet:
Red
Head Roach
Oxyhaloa deusta

 

 

Common and Scientific
Name
Red Head
Roach
Oxyhaloa deusta
Breeding Information and
Defining Characteristics

They
breed well at about 80 Degrees.

Their main defining characteristics are that they breed
readily, their babies are about the size of fruit flies
and they have red heads.  See pictures below.

 

Feeding Preferences Dog and cat food, fruits and vegetables and a
dish of Cricket Crystals to provide humidity and drink.
Housing Requirements
Small container with lots of egg crates and a
lid.
Difficulty Rearing
Very Easy
Climbing Habit
Climbing species. Can easily climb plastic
walls. You Bug Boundary and a lid.
Substrate
Coconut fiber and sphagnum moss, or nothing
at all.  We raise ours without substrate and they still
breed like crazy without the worry of mites and mold that
comes with substrate.
Temperature and Humidity
Fairly high humidity with good ventilation.
Requires temperature of 78 to 85F
Restrictions
Not Florida Legal

 

Pictures:

Red Head Roach
Red Head Roach

Video

 

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Superworm Farming

superworms pupating

Superworms are a great worms.  They do have specific requirements like temperature, feeding and separation of individual worms before they will pupate.

One of the most labor intensive jobs on our superworm farm is to pull the larva and beetles from the seperators.

Not only does it take a lot of time, but it is a disgusting and smelly job at times.  If you have never smelled a dead and rotting superworm, you are lucky.  It is the kind of smell that gets into your nose and skin and stays there no matter what you do to try to get rid of it.

I don’t have  solution for you on the smell except to tell you to ensure that the pupating worms have plenty of air flow so that if they die they don’t rot.

The point of this post is to show you a large amount of superworms larva.  We place the larva in pans and incubate them at an even temperature and humidity so that we get perfectly formed superworm beetles.

 

super worms
Superworm Seperators

superworms pupating

 

 

 

 

 

The video below is of thousands of super worm larva.  I thought it would make a cool video to show you what that looks like.

Please write if you have questions about breeding your own superworms.

 

If you want to breed your own superworms try our superworm breeding kit with detailed instructions.

 

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Ivory Head Roach Care Sheet

Roach Care Sheet

Roach Care Sheet:
Ivory head roach
Eublaberus Ivory

 

 

Common and Scientific
Name
 
Ivory head roach
Eublaberus Ivory
Breeding Information and
Defining Characteristics

Is
fine at room temperature but will breed best at temps of
80 to 90F.
They are a great roach for Blatticomposting.

 

Feeding Preferences Moist cat food and  scraps of fruits and
vegetables
Housing Requirements
Any container with slippery sides.  They
can take crowding very well.
Difficulty Rearing
Easy to medium
Climbing Habit
Cannot climb smooth surfaces
Substrate
Peat moss or coconut coir bedding
Temperature and Humidity
Keep with water crystals at all times, mist
weekly and keep at 80 to 90 degrees to breed.
Restrictions
Not Florida Legal

 

Pictures:
Video

 

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Lobster Roach Care Sheet

Lobster Roaches are easy to care for and breed readily.  They are probably the easiest roach species to breed, feed and care for.  Unfortunately, they are also great escape artists so a tight fitting lid on their enclosure is needed to contain them.

If you need feeders that will breed faster than you can feed them off to your reptiles, spiders and mantids, then Lobster Roaches are it.

If you are looking for Lobster Roaches for sale, then please check out our selection at some very inexpensive prices here.

Roach Care Sheet:
Lobster Roaches
 Nauphoeta cinerea

 

 

Common and Scientific
Name
Lobster Roaches
 Nauphoeta cinerea
Breeding Information and
Defining Characteristics

Breed
readily.  Gives birth to live young.  If kept above room temp, with food provided they will breed
prolifically.

 

Feeding Preferences Dry dog food, cat food, fresh fruits and vegetables such as romaine, carrots, apples, bananas,
oranges, celery, squash, peas and others.
Housing Requirements
Extra large critter keeper, a 5 gallon bucket with a lid or rubber storage tubs with ventilation holes.
Add a thick layer of Bug Boundary Grease or paint a boundary
with Bug Boundary, to reduce losses and prevent escapes.
Difficulty Rearing
Easy
Climbing Habit
They climb glass and plastic well but prefer
to stay hidden in egg crates and hiding spots.
Substrate
No substrate needed.  Vertically
positioned egg crates are all they need to be happy.
Temperature and Humidity
Keep the cage between 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The environment should be relatively humid by
misting the cage at least once in a day very lightly.
Do not make it wet.
Restrictions
Not allowed in Florida

 

Pictures: Lobster Roaches
Video

 

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Roach Care Sheet: Madagascar Hissing Roaches

Madagascar Hissing Roach

Roach Care Sheet

Roach Care Sheet:

Madagascar Hissing
Cockroaches

Gromphadorhina
portentosa

 

Common and Scientific
Name
Madagascar Hissing
Cockroaches
Gromphadorhina
portentosa
Breeding Information and
Defining Characteristics

Hissing Roaches will readily breed with
enough food and warmth.  We have found that very ripe
bananas seem to help the breeding process.
Madagascar Hissing Roaches will make a hissing sound when
disturbed.  This is a defense mechanism.  Hissing
roaches are harmless.
Feeding Preferences Dry dog or cat food, fresh fruits such as
apple, banana, orange, strawberries and romaine lettuce as
well as fresh vegetables.  They can sometimes be
picky.  They will devour a banana one day and then
ignore it for Romaine Lettuce the following day.
Housing Requirements
Can be housed in as small as half gallon
container with adequate ventilation and crawl/hide
spaces.  We use egg crates.   Petroleum
jelly, Bug Boundary or Bug Boundary Grease around the upper
rim to prevent escapes.
Difficulty Rearing
Easy.
Climbing Habit

They
can climb glass and smooth plastic

Substrate
Slightly damp coconut fiber.  If you do
not provide a substrate, then keep a nice size cup or bowl
of Cricket Crystals because they will go to it to get the
humidity that they need to molt.  See video below.
Temperature and Humidity
Place a water bowl in the cage, filled with
Cricket Crystals to keep the environment humid. They can
cope at room temperature, suitable breeding temperature is
95 degrees Fahrenheit. A heat pad or lamp can be used to
provide warmth.
Restrictions
Not allowed in Florida.

 

Pictures: Madagascar Hissing Roach
Video

 

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Oriental Roach Care Sheet

Oriental Roach

Roach Care Sheet

Roach Care  Sheet:  

Oriental Roach


Blatta orientalis

 

 

Common and Scientific
Name

Oriental Roach
Blatta orientalis
Breeding Information and
Defining Characteristics

They
will breed readily when the environment is right.
They will lay egg cases which will hatch in a couple of
weeks with temps around 80 degrees.

They
are a dark colored, almost maroon, fast moving
roach.

 

Feeding Preferences They feed on dead decaying organic matter.
Housing Requirements
A well ventilated container with lid and
Vaseline to prevent escape, eg cartons, food, water and heat
Difficulty Rearing
Medium.  We have raised these on very
moist substrate and lost every roach.  We also have
raised them where the temps dipped and they died.  If
everything is right they will thrive.  They look a
great deal like Blatta Lateralis except that the adults are
larger and darker in color. They are not as easy to raise as
Blatta Lateralis.
Climbing Habit
They can climb glass and plastic.  They
like to climb over branches and egg cartons.
Substrate
No substrate is needed
Temperature and Humidity
They prefer dark, damp and cool areas. The
optimum temperature is between 68 and 84F
Restrictions
Florida Legal.

 

Pictures:
Video Oriental roach video