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From Garbage to Compost, The Gut Wrenching Tale of Casting Creation

All living creatures eat…most do anyway.   Carnivores like Meat while Herbivores are like leaves. But do you know who really takes the dirt cake? Detritivores: literally, trash eaters. They eat decaying matter like leaves, grasses, and manure.   Some of the best detritivores are Earthworms.

How does a slimey wiggly worm turn dead plants, decomposing animal bits, weird fungi, and even mold and manure into nutrient rich compost?

Let’s break down, and digest, the process of the worm’s end product.  Worm castings are formed after the worm food takes a straight shot from mouth to anus with a brief stop in the gizzard to be ground up and then the gut where the garbage is broken down.  Before we get to the chemistry, some biology and physics. Earthworms are part of a superfamily of invertebrates called megadriles that have fascinated Humans for centuries. Even Charles Darwin  wrote a book on the glorious creatures. As I said, worms process food in a straight shot: Their guts don’t twist and turn like ours. Up front is a toothless mouth, then a series of muscles that suck detritus in.

Just after the earthworm mouth is a curious set of glands that secrete a milky liquid containing calcium carbonate – the same stuff that makes up seashells. The dirt where worms make their home has a lot of CO2 in it which can impact a worm’s body chemistry, making its blood more acidic. So this gland is a  way for worms to balance out their CO2 with soil calcium, which, by the way, means less CO2 makes it into the atmosphere. Earthworms have a gizzard, too. Where churning muscles crush the incoming food thanks to bits of sand and rock the earthworm has sucked up. So the earthworm’s intestine receives some crushed dirt including plant bits like dead leaves and bark that no human could hope to digest. For us, a happy human gut is one that regularly has a bit of fiber pass on through. But earthworms eat almost entirely fiber, so how do they get any nutrients? Enter a quartet of enzymes: amylase, lipase, pepsin, and cellulase.

These specialized proteins chop and modify swallowed food into molecules the body can take in. We humans have three of these enzymes: amylase in our saliva breaks down starches. Worms just happen to keep their spit in their guts. Lipase breaks down fats so earthworms can digest plant oils. Then pepsin breaks down proteins to digest animal bits. But earthworms can make a dinner of all that vegetable-y fiber thanks to cellulase. As its name suggests, this enzyme breaks down cellulose, the hard fiber that gives leaves structure and lets trees stand tall with wood and bark. Given enough time, no dead tree is a match for Slimey! All forest litter is not a tasty dirt sandwich, however. Many plants contain toxins that defend them from hungry creatures. Polyphenols contain a class of toxic molecules that cause illness or death to insects. But earthworms, who can’t avoid munching polyphenols up, have molecules in their gut called drilodefensins. It seems only soil-dwelling megadriles contain drilodefensins, which is why they can chew right through those dead plants.

A few enzymes aren’t the only digestive trait we share with earthworms. We both have gut bacteria showing just how tiny microbes are. Not surprisingly, gut microbes in earthworms are soil bacteria that chew nitrogen out of the plant material, taking in nitrates and nitrites and expelling nitrogen gas in a process called denitrification. Which leads us to consider what comes out in the end … of the earthworm. Biologists call earthworm poop “castings”. Given what happens in worms’ guts, we here at Reactions call this chemically processed, calcium injected, black stuff, mana. So here’s why worm poop is a big deal. Earthworms munch up indigestible garbage and cast out soils that can support healthy ecosystems: Earthworms break down all that cellulose that could clutter up, then choke out forests. A herd of earthworms can munch over 20 tons of dead organic matter per acre per year: all around the world there are examples where they’ve transformed bad grazing land into bountiful fields. This is why composters love earthworms — they’re like earth’s little garbage people. Thanks little guys! Of course, it’s worth saying that there are invasive earthworms disrupting ecosystems in some places.

It’s not all sunshine and ponies in the earthworm world. The nitrogen returns to the atmosphere, eventually completing the nitrogen cycle, so other plants can mine that vital element anew and make food for organisms like us. And all those worms drill little tunnels through the soil to let air and water get deeper to feed strong roots of plants and trees.

What do you think?  Want to try your hand at vermicomposting?  Let us know below or go to http://www.wormman.com for some composting worms and supplies.

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Flowery Blue Isopods Porcellionides floria Care

Flowery Blue Isopods

Flowery Blue Isopods

Porcellionides floria

Porcellionides floria are a fast growing, fast breeding isopod that will rapidly fill their enclosure with young. Keep segregated from other isopods because they will out-compete others for food because of their fast breeding. They are easy to care for and eat many different types of dried leaves, grasses and foods. They are fond of Oak Leaves, Alfalfa hay and fish flakes but will also eat many different food scraps.

Flowery Blue Isopods
Flowery Blue Isopods

They are native to the southern United States but have been found as far north as New Jersey.  They can be found in various warm places around the globe due to Human transport. They are often found under rocks heated by Sunshine or in warm compost heaps. The range from powder blue to light orange in color and we are currently working on a white variation. They have waxy grains on their exoskeleton that makes them look like they are covered in a soft blue powder.

Food:  Fish flakes, alfalfa grass, dried leaves,
Brewer’s yeast and fruit and vegetable slices are happily
eaten by Porcellionides floria.

Sprinkle some Brewer’s yeast in a corner and mist it. The Isopods will eat that fungus. Remove any food items that mold other than the fungus from Brewer’s Yeast.

Temp Requirements: They like it warm. 75 to 85 degrees
will keep them breeding for you.
Enclosure:  Any container with slick sides. A glass
aquarium, plastic bin or a shoe box with a lid are great
containers to start with. Drill holes in any container
that has a lid. Airflow is important.

Breeding: They will breed quickly and readily and
will often breed prior to reaching full size.

Ease of Care: Easy

Substrate: Coconut Coir Bedding, Peat moss or sterilized
leaf litter work well.

Humidity: Humid

Size: They get to be about a quarter in long.
Place of Origin Mediterranean.

Identifying Characteristics:  Elongated, thin body with a powdery coating in blue or even orange. The blue variation is often confused with
Powdery Blue Isopods.

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Powder-Blue Isopods Porcellionides Pruinosus

POWDER-BLUE ISOPODS "ORANGE"

 

 

Isopod:  Powder-Blue
Isopods “Orange”

Latin Name: Porcellionides Pruinosus

Powder-Blue Isopods, or “Powdery Blue’s, ‘Orange‘”,
are a fast growing, fast breeding isopod that will rapidly fill their enclosure with young.  Keep segregated from other isopods because they will out-compete others for food because of their fast breeding.  They are easy to care for and eat many different types of dried leaves, grasses and foods.  They are fond of Oak Leaves, Alfalfa hay and fish flakes but will also eat many different food scraps.
They are native to the Mediterranean but can be found in various warm places around the globe.  They are often found under rocks heated by Sunshine or in warm compost heaps.  The range from powder blue to light orange in color and we are currently working on a white variation.  They have waxy grains on their exoskeleton that makes them look like they are covered in a soft powder.

Food Fish flakes, alfalfa grass, dried leaves,
brewers yeast and fruit and vegetable slices are happily
eaten by
Porcellionides Pruinosus. Sprinkle
some Brewer’s yeast in a corner and mist it.  The Isopods
will eat that fungus.  Remove any food items that mold
other than the fungus from Brewer’s Yeast.
Temp Requirements They like it warm.  75 to 85 degrees
will keep them breeding for you.
Enclosure Any container with slick sides.  A glass
aquarium, plastic bin or a shoe box with a lid are great
containers to start with.  Drill holes in any container
that has a lid.  Airflow is important.
Breeding They will breed quickly and readily and
will  often breed prior to reaching full size.
Ease of Care Easy
Substrate Coconut Coir Bedding, Peat moss or sterilized
leaf litter works well.
Humidity Humid
Size They get to be about a quarter in long.
Place of Origin Mediterranean.
Identifying Characteristics Elongated, thin body with a powdery coating in
blue or orange. The blue variation is often confused with
Flowery Blue Isopods.

 

Powdery Blue Isopods
Powdery Blue Isopods

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Porcellio Scaber “Rough Isopod Care Sheet

Rough Isopods

Porcellio Scaber

porcellio scaber

Rough Isopods, known by their Latin name, Porcellio scaber, are very easy to grow, house and care for.  They can take wild extremes in temps and I have raised them in  dry and very wet conditions without any interruption in growth and breeding.

Porcellio scabers are a great Isopod for beginners and also for experienced keepers.  The beginner can raise Scabers to learn from, while the experienced keeper can experiment with different morph combinations.  Over the years some very beautiful color variations have been created from pure white with white eyes to orange dalmations, and several other types in between.

We raise thousands of Rough Isopods and we have found that they especially love Pecan leaves, Alfalfa hay and pellets, fish flakes and brewers yeast.  If you have all of those, you will be a hit with your Isopods.  They will literally eat out of your hands.

Base Care Info:

Housing:  [types field=’housing’][/types]

Food:  [types field=’food-preferences’][/types]

Temperature:  [types field=’temp-requirements’][/types]

Breeding:  [types field=’breeding’][/types]

Substrate:  [types field=’substrate’][/types]

Difficulty Rating:  [types field=’difficulty-rating’][/types]

Size:  [types field=’size’][/types]

Humidity:  [types field=’humidity’][/types]

Porcellio Scaber

 

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Red Eared Slider Secrets – The Red Eared Slider Secret Manual

Your Red-Eared Slider swims in an irregular manner, such as unevenly, in circles or upside-down, known as listing

Your Red-Eared Slider is vomiting anything other than food from a recent meal, especially if frequent
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The 3 Foods Both Roaches and Isopods Love

Feeding Roaches and

Isopods

I am often asked what I use as a stable diet for roaches and for isopods, and if there is anything that will feed both.  The answer is yes and yes.  We feed three items to our roaches and to our isopods universally.  I will go into each food type that we use.  Those are not the only food items that we feed to our roaches and Isopods.  For instance, we feed or roaches a variety of vegetables and fruits in addition the to three universal items.  Those food items vary based upon the species.  Some roaches love oranges, for instance, while others ignore them.  Some are picky and some are not.  Most roaches eat good quality cat food, which is high in protein.

The three staple food items that our roaches and Isopods receive are;

  1.  Fish food flakes.  We use tropical fish flakes and gold fish food flakes for all of our roaches and isopods.  They all seem to devour it.  Good cat food contains about 27% protein, but fish food flakes contains 42% crude protein.  The fish food also has calcium, vitamin d and various vitamins and minerals that roaches and isopods need.   We buy the brand below by the case.  You can get it in smaller containers for less, and you can also use other manufacturers but this is what we use.

 

[phpbay keywords=”Tetra Fish food” num=”3″ siteid=”1″ sortorder=”BestMatch” freeshipping=”true” templatename=”columns” columns=”3″ paging=”true”]

shadow-ornament

2.  The 2nd thing that we feed to our roaches and isopods is Brewers yeast.  We have not yet found an isopod species that does not love Brewer's yeast.  Roaches seem to eat it also.  We feed this week.  Brewer's yeast contains B vitamins and is a by-product for the beer making process.  Maybe that's why they like it.  This is the type that we use, and it smells great.
[phpbay keywords="Brewers Yeast" num="3" siteid="1" sortorder="BestMatch" freeshipping="true" templatename="columns" columns="3" paging="true"]

3.  The third food that our roaches and isopods love are leaves.  Most species of roaches and isopods love leaves.  They especially love Pecan, Oak and Sugar Maple leaves, in that order.  At least that is what our findings have been here with our 60 isopod and roach species that we grow here on our farm.

The video below is of some of our roach species eating leaves.  I apologize for the video quality.  I am still learning to make and edit video.

If you would like Pecan, Oak or Maple leaves just let us know.  We have them at great prices. Send me a message at Contact Support if you can't find them.

Please tell us what you feed to your roaches and isopods below.  Upload some pictures of your species eating eating what you feed to them.

Thank you.

Ken

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GardenRack ─ The Waist High Raised Bed Garden System – Home

If you’ve had to stop doing the gardening you love ─ or have been told to quit ─ welcome to GardenRack, the ultimate raised bed garden plan. It’s a free-standing, portable, low cost alternative to in-ground gardening. If I could show you a way to walk out onto your deck, patio, balcony, or into your yard and do some weeding, watering, planting and harvesting c all without bending or kneeling ─ would you be interested? It’s possible because the height can be adjusted to your own custom fit. You can tailor GardenRack’s dimensions to fit any height needed. In the downloadable plans for building a raised bed garden, the planting surface is designed to be waist high. Want some proof? That’s me in the photo to the right. I’m 5 foot, 2 inches tall. If that’s your height, too, then just use the dimensions stated in the plans. If you happen to be taller or shorter, just measure your height from the ground to your waist and that’s how high the GardenRack should be. And in this photo you can see that I’m growing tomatoes, herbs and scallions all within the 2 foot by 3 foot planting beds. I grow spring veggies like lettuce, radishes, scallions, carrots and peas as well as summer vegetables like tomatoes, peppers and herbs. Since you can customize the height to your individual needs, GardenRack is a perfect fit for gardeners in wheelchairs or with limited mobility. There’s even a way to attach a trellis to grow vertically and reach vegetables for your supper ─ without help.

Get INSTANT ACCESS To GardenRack, the Waist High Raised Bed Gardening System
Continue reading GardenRack ─ The Waist High Raised Bed Garden System – Home