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Keep warm 80 to 85 degrees for breeding. Keep humid. Provide dried leaves and fresh fruits and vegetables and they will breed. They also jump and
fly so keep the lid on it.
Feeding Preferences
Dried dead gum leaves, or other dead leaves, fruits such as apple, banana, carrots, potato, lettuce and
many more…
Housing Requirements
Any small container, terrarium or fish tank with ventilation will suffice. Also add sand or kritters
crumble
Difficulty Rearing
Easy
Climbing/Flying
Non-Climbing but they can jump and fly.
Be careful when opening their enclosure.
Regular spraying and dampening is required to keep the environment humid. A lamp may be used to apply some heat to the environment. 75 to 85 Degrees is optimal. Use
higher temps in this range for breeding.
Climbing
species, they can also fly. The nymphs are brown
but the adults are green. They fly and will bolt
out of containers when you open for inspection.
Inspect the lids when you open the containers.
They will breed well at a temperature between 80 and 90
degrees.
Feeding Preferences
Fruits such as banana, vegetables such as
cucumber and cereal
Housing Requirements
Any container with a well fitting lid.
Air vents are important.
They grow best at a temperature between at
can be supplied using a lamp, add hydrated water crystals to
keep the environment humid. Maintain a temperature of 80 to
90F
Many of our customers buy feeder insects to feed to their chameleons. We get pictures of their babies all of the time and we started keeping them on the walls here. Over time those pictures of various reptiles, fish, frogs, birds, chickens and pet insects took over an entire hallway wall and the walls of two offices.
I tell you this because I know that our customer’s pets are important to them and they are important to us. I started staring at some of the pictures of the chameleon that one of our customers sent back in 2010 and I realized that I never wrote anything about what Chameleons eat. We have a ton of customers that buy feeders for chameleons but I never wrote a single word about what they like best.
One of the questions we often get via email, is “what do chameleon’s eat?” Well, I will tell you what chameleons eat in this article.
Chameleons eat many different types of insects while in captivity. In fact, they should probably be provided a variety of insects so that they can get what they need from the various insects. For instance, fat and minerals from wax worms, and protein from crickets and worms. Chameleons relish variety.
One of the things that I have heard from my customers over the years is that chameleons have a propensity to develop certain vitamin deficiencies over time because of the dietary restrictions caused by living in captivity. For instance, not enough of the right kind of light can cause vitamin D3 issues. Many chameleons also suffer from vitamin A deficiency.
Many of the nutritional deficiencies can be stopped or corrected by offering a variety of insects and by gut loading and dusting those insects with a nutritonal powder.
Some of the insects that chameleons devour readily, and that can also be easily gut loaded and dusted are:
Crickets: Crickets are a staple in chameleon diets. We feed our crickets vegetables and Mazuri Cricket Diet to ensure that our crickets are getting a well balanced diet so that they can become part of a well balanced diet for chameleons. You should feed them broccoli, green leafy foods and a good grain diets like Mazuri Cricket Diet which used to be called Purina Worm Chow.
Flies: Chameleons love flies. They eat them in their natural habitat readily. We sell Blue Bottle Fly Larva (spikes) that can be grown into flies so that your chameleons can have them as a treat. You can dust them easily and feed them as needed.
Tomato Hornworms: They are shipped to you alive, in plastic containers with enough food to get them to the size you need for your chameleon. Do not feed them tomato plants or they will become poisonous.
Silkworms:Although we do not grow or sell silkworms at this point, I do recommend making silkworms part of your cham’s diet. These days you can buy eggs and grow the silkworms on artificial diet or you can feed them fresh Mulberry leaves if you have a large tree, and the tree is making leaves. Just know that once you feed silkworms fresh Mulberry leaves, you will not be able to go back to artificial diet.
Waxworms: We grow and sell waxworms and we will soon have 32 ounce wax worm cultures for our customers to buy so that they can grow the wax worms to the size they need for their pets. We will not treat these culture, which means that they will be more active. This also means that they will spin cocoons, which is something that treated waxworms do not do. On the flip side, not treating wax worms, keeps them more active so they move faster and climb and that will entice chameleons to eat. The one caviat is that waxworms should not be used as a staple food. They should be fed sparingly, as a treat or to help put weight on a sickly Cham. They larva can should be dusted with a vitamin powder.
Mealworms: Mealworms are a great food for chameleons. Mealworms are the larva of a beetle alled Tenebrio Molitor. They can be gut-loaded and dusted to help increase nutrional value.
Cockroaches: As with most of the feeder items on this list, you can buy cockroaches from us or any number of vendors online. We currently have 25 different varieties of cockroaches breeding at any one time. Some climb, so don’t. Some cockroaches grow large and some are the size of fruit flies when they hatch. You can purchase a few and keep them warm and well fed and you will have a constant supply of roaches after a few months. Try a couple species of roach to see if you Cham goes for them. Once you find a species that he/she prefers then breed that type, dust and gutload them and have another item in your food variety arsenal.
There are so many great feeders coming on the market. For instance, we will soon have Firebrats and curly-wing houseflies for sale, and Lesser Wax Worms moths which are also a great food for smaller Chameleons.
Remember, variety is key in the diet of a chameleon, and common sense efforts must be made to ensure that they are getting all of the vitamins and minerals that they need through gut-loading and dusting that variety of insects.
Perhaps it is time to come up with a chameleon feeder insect variety pack. What are your toughts on this idea? I would love to hear from you.
We rarely promote other people’s books or products on our blog but this is a very good introduction to Chameleons for about $10 that I bought a while back and you might enjoy. Click Here!
Here is a link to free guide that will also help you learn more about chameleons.
Invariably, no matter how faithful you are at guarding your worm bin, critters will get into your worm composting bin. Those critters run from harmless and benign to downright repulsive and harmful.
There are many critters that actually help your worm bin thrive.
Isopods and springtails are a couple of compost bin invaders that actually help break down food waste into nutrient rich worm and critter castings. They are good inhabitants and should be kept, if possible.
There there are the not so great worm composting bin critters. Those are bugs and mammals that attack worms, eat their cocoons or compete with them for food.
Some of those harmful pests of your compost bin are mice, rats, roaches moles, earwigs, mites, flies, centipedes roaches and ants and millipedes.
Kill roaches where you find them and remove the bin to an outdoor area immediately if they are found in your worm bin. Call a pest control specialist if you believe that you have roaches in your house. The worm bin most likely did not bring the roaches in. They were probably attracted to your worm bin because it was moist, warm and filled with things that they like to eat.
Mice and rats will feed on food in your composting bin and not usually the Redworms themselves. They will eat the food meant for the worms, they will tunnel through the worm bedding and they will use your composting bin covers as nesting material. There are humane traps on the market that can help you get rid of mice and rats.
Moles are also a major pain and they will invade your worm beds from the bottom, tunnel through the bed and feast on the worms. You will have to poison, trap or kill moles or you will lose your worms.
Millipedes and centipedes will eat small worms and cocoons. Smush them when you see them. The same goes for nasty earwigs. Have gloves on hand and smash them between your thumb and forefinger when you come across them in your worm composter.
Ants will also compete for food and they will carry the food away to their ant world.
Flies will not carry your worm bedding contents away but they will lay eggs in the worm compost bedding and the larvae will hatch and eat the food and make a stinking mess of your worm bin.
Pests are drawn to food. The only way to stop them is to keep your area clean, keep the worms indoors, or have a tight fitting lid on your worm beds/bins so that nothing can get into your worm bedding.
Practice common sense composting and keep your area open and clean. Debris provides hiding places for vermin and the vermin will then be attracted to your worm bin.
We are generating a new generation of Firebrats every two weeks from the culture that we highlighted a couple of months ago (That Firebrat post is here). We set up a small culture using dollar store items to create the habitat.
We created a Firebrat incubator out of a large cooler, hooked up a thermostat to it and hooked the thermostat to a heat emitter bulb used to warm reptiles.
This video is of that same culture which is now swarming with baby Firebrats. We have started several other cultures from that Firebrat culture.
We will have Firebrats for sale shortly. We have thousands breeding and hatching every day. We look forward to servicing your Firebrat needs very soon.
What are the secrets of culturing Firebrats (Thermobia domestica)? Well, heat is very important. 95 to about 105 degrees seems to be the best range.
Firebrats need a source of humidity but they do not do well if their home is moist. They need airflow and a bowl of Cricket Crystals to maintain just enough humidity, which helps them shed as they grow.
Firebrats need a constand source of food. We keep fish flakes in a bowl, as you will see in the video, at all times.
You will need cotton balls for the adult Firebrats to lay eggs in. The eggs will hatch after about two weeks at 95 degrees.
If you are looking to breed and care for your own Firebrats just drop us a line or ask your questions here.
They will breed readily if their requirements are meant. This isopod likes a drier substrate with drier leaves but with a moist retreat. They love fish flakes and fresh vegetables. They also like it warmer than many isopods. If you keep them between 75 and 85
degrees they will breed well. Lightly mist the enclosure weekly but to not make wet.
Feeding Preferences
Fish food flakes, fresh vegetables, dried
tree leaves.
Housing Requirements
Zebra Isopods will do well in a shoe box or any container or aquarium with a lid to keep out pests,
flies, spiders and that sort of thing.
Difficulty Rearing
Medium difficulty because of the substrate requirements.
Lifespan
8 to 12 months which comes from us tracking individual breeders over time.
Peat moss or Coconut Coir bedding. With a covering of dried leaves.
Temperature and Humidity
They like it on the warm side, which is
between 75 and 85 degrees. You can easily reach this temp by keeping them near furnace, on a refrigerator or on
top of a heating pad made for reptiles or plants. I
have linked to a couple as a reference.
Their main defining characteristics are that they breed
readily, their babies are about the size of fruit flies
and they have red heads. See pictures below.
Feeding Preferences
Dog and cat food, fruits and vegetables and a
dish of Cricket Crystals to provide humidity and drink.
Housing Requirements
Small container with lots of egg crates and a
lid.
Difficulty Rearing
Very Easy
Climbing Habit
Climbing species. Can easily climb plastic
walls. You Bug Boundary and a lid.
Coconut fiber and sphagnum moss, or nothing
at all. We raise ours without substrate and they still
breed like crazy without the worry of mites and mold that
comes with substrate.
Temperature and Humidity
Fairly high humidity with good ventilation.
Requires temperature of 78 to 85F
Superworms are a great worms. They do have specific requirements like temperature, feeding and separation of individual worms before they will pupate.
One of the most labor intensive jobs on our superworm farm is to pull the larva and beetles from the seperators.
Not only does it take a lot of time, but it is a disgusting and smelly job at times. If you have never smelled a dead and rotting superworm, you are lucky. It is the kind of smell that gets into your nose and skin and stays there no matter what you do to try to get rid of it.
I don’t have solution for you on the smell except to tell you to ensure that the pupating worms have plenty of air flow so that if they die they don’t rot.
The point of this post is to show you a large amount of superworms larva. We place the larva in pans and incubate them at an even temperature and humidity so that we get perfectly formed superworm beetles.
The video below is of thousands of super worm larva. I thought it would make a cool video to show you what that looks like.
Please write if you have questions about breeding your own superworms.
Please check out https://www.Invertebrateauction.com if you are looking to buy and sell your own invertebrates. Dismiss
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We are glad you are here. It gets lonely just talking to worms, crickets and fruit flies all day. Please engage with me, ask me a question or post a comment. Check out our forum and our directory. If you need worms, roaches or any type of feeder insects, please try Wormman.com
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