Composting is the process of breaking down organic matter, such as food scraps, yard waste, and other biodegradable materials, into a nutrient-rich soil amendment. Composting is a natural process that helps to reduce the amount of waste that goes into landfills and helps to improve soil health. Composting can be done in a variety of ways, including backyard composting, vermicomposting, and commercial composting.
Composting is the process of breaking down organic matter, such as food scraps, yard waste, and other biodegradable materials, into a nutrient-rich soil amendment. Composting is a natural process that helps to reduce the amount of waste that goes into landfills and helps to improve soil health. Composting can be done in a variety of ways, including backyard composting, vermicomposting, and commercial composting.
Composting is the process of breaking down organic matter, such as food scraps, yard waste, and other biodegradable materials, into a nutrient-rich soil amendment. Composting is a natural process that helps to reduce the amount of waste sent to landfills, while also providing a valuable soil amendment for gardens and landscaping. Composting can be done in a variety of ways, including backyard composting, vermicomposting, and commercial composting.
Composting is the process of breaking down organic matter, such as food scraps, yard waste, and other biodegradable materials, into a nutrient-rich soil amendment. Composting is a natural process that helps to reduce the amount of waste sent to landfills, while also providing a valuable soil amendment for gardens and landscaping. Composting can be done in a variety of ways, including backyard composting, vermicomposting, and commercial composting.
Composting is the process of breaking down organic matter, such as food scraps, yard waste, and other biodegradable materials, into a nutrient-rich soil amendment. Composting is a natural process that helps to reduce the amount of waste that goes into landfills and helps to improve soil health. Composting can be done in a variety of ways, including backyard composting, vermicomposting, and commercial composting.
Composting is the process of breaking down organic matter, such as food scraps, yard waste, and other biodegradable materials, into a nutrient-rich soil amendment. Composting is a natural process that helps to reduce the amount of waste sent to landfills, while also providing a valuable soil amendment for gardens and landscaping. Composting can be done in a variety of ways, including backyard composting, vermicomposting, and commercial composting.
I plant enough to feed my family fresh vegetables and to also offer our insects organic vegetables. Our roaches, isopods and worms love fresh veggies.
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Breeding your own mealworms can save you money and ensure that your pets and wild birds are getting the very best food.
What you will need:
1. Mealworms. Please get them from us. We have mealworms for sale and on sale here. 🙂
2. You will need a bedding/food source. We use wheat bran. You can also get that from us or from any farm and feed store.
3. You will need 2 shoe boxes. You will not need the lid unless you live in a very dry climate.
Mealworm Life Cycle:
Mealworm Breeding Instructions:
1. Retrieve your worms from the package and place them in one of the containers with about 1/4” of the bedding/food. You will not need the other container right now so store it in a safe place.
2. Feed the worms a slice of potato or cucumber. Please replace daily and throw away the old piece.
3. Let your worms eat the bedding and drink from the vegetable until the morph into beetles which should happen over the next couple of weeks.
4. Keep them worms in a warm place. Room temp or above, to about 85 degrees, will work well. Ensure that the bedding does not get wet or mold. You can do this by fluffing it weekly.
5. Your worms will morph into pupa and then they will becomebeetles. Remove the beetles from the container and place them in the second breeding container with ¼ “ of the wheat bran and give them a slice of potato.
7. Over the next couple of weeks the beetles will lay eggs in the bedding. After about a week, baby worms will be visible in the bedding, especially under the potato slices.
8. Just leave the beetles in that container and allow them to lay eggs until the die, which will take a couple of weeks
9. The worms will take a few weeks to grow out into large worms and then you will be able to repeat the process.
10. To size the worms, just move the beetles into a new container every week. You can use a shoe box or a Rubbermaid container. You do not have to do this but this will help you have the same size worms in each container. This is how the big superworm farms do it.
You can supplement their wheat bran bedding with non-medicated chicken feed, table bran, and things like whole grain cerial and oats.
You can also just get yourself a mealworm breeding kit from us and most of the work is done for you. Plus, it comes with meal worms. We have Mealworm Breeding Kits for Sale here.
I get at least an email per week asking me how to make bedding for breeding worms. Then I get more about how to make bedding without peat moss. We do not use peat moss because it is nonrenewable, so we opt for creating our own “Worm-Safe” bedding, which can be used for breeding Red Worms, African Night Crawlers and European Nightcrawlers, also known as “Euro Worms”. All red composting worms can use our Worm-Safe worm bedding recipe.
I have made a long video explaining the process. I apologize for the length of the video but I wanted to get all of the information in. You can also see a cameo of my son’s pig, Spamela.
Making the worm breeder bedding is a two part process. The first part is mixing about 40% fresh horse, rabbit or cow manure, or aged fowl manure, with 60% straw or other brown material like dried grass clippings. That mixture is moistened and allowed to heat for a couple of weeks.
Then, once past the compost heating stage, we mix that with 50/50 with shredded cardboard and newspaper that has been wet down, mixed and also allowed to age about a week or so.
We mix those two parts together, 50-50 and let it age again for week to ensure that it will not heat again. We take daily temperature readings with a composting thermometer.
Then we add the bedding to our composting or bait worm breeder bins. We only use about 3 inches of that mixture and we put in our breeders. They stay in that worm bin for 21 days at around 75 degrees and then they are moved to fresh bins. The egg capsules and babies, which are now in the bin with our original mixture, are placed in an incubator, bin and all, and hatch out. We keep them in that bin until we can see them easily. At that point we put them into a growout worm bed and feed them to get them to mature size as quickly as possible.
I will be posting some diagrams and pictures of our system soon. Please ask your questions below or in our forum.
Thank you.
Ken
Worm Man’s Worm Farm. Wormman.com
