Worms crawling to the surface of the worm bed and dying. This is called protein poisoning by some. This is really just putrification of the worm bedding. This happens when there is too much water and too little air. Remember that bedding should be moist but not wet. The bin should smell Earthy and not like death. You can save your worms if you just caught the problem now and some worms are still alive and healthy.
Solution:
Aerate the bedding immediately. Add dry peat moss or coir to the bedding and mix it in. Add dry crumpled newspaper if you don’t have peat and coir. You can add newspaper even if you do have coir or peat. Fluff the bedding and let the dry material act as airholes through out the worm bin or worm bed.
Remove and corn or bread products. Worms can tolerate small amounts of bread and corn but too much will cause fermentation in the bedding. This will cause putrification.
Test for pH. Anything above a 7 is too alkaline or below a 6 is too acidic. Treat with powdered limestone.
Problem:
Worms are crawling off.
Solution:
If this is a new bin or bed of worms then they just might not be used to their home. Red Worms and Euroworms will attempt to crawl off when they are first installed in their new home. Especially after a long trip from our farm to yours. The easiest cure is to put a light over the worm bin, worm bed or composting bin for a few days. If the worms are well fed and the pH and conditions are right then the light will not be needed. J
Just remember that worms will attempt to crawl if they are left in open worm bins outside in the rain. If you can cover them they will not crawl off. You can also put a two inch strip of wood around the top of the bin to as a crawl barrier. The wooden slate would hang over the top of the worm bed with the lip hanging over on the inside of the bin. The worms will crawl up and will not be able to go around the wood slat. This is the best solution.
If the worms have been in the bed for a while you will want to check to make sure that your bedding is not acidic, that it is not anerobic or that the bedding is not used up. If the bedding it powdery and there aren’t signs of food in the bed then it’s time to change the bedding and use the worm castings on your organic garden. Worm castings are the best natural fertilzer known to mankind, wormkind and wormmankind. 🙂
We cannot ship to Hawaii because of their stringent laws prohibiting non-native insects and soil to be shipped to the island, and rightfully so.
If you live on the island of Hawaii, and you want to compost, there is a program available about healing the Earth through composting. It looks like a great program.
My name is Ken Chiarella. I started Wormman.com in 1997. Prior to that we were R&K Trading Company. By 2000 we were doing about $150,000 in sales. Most were online sales for red worms, but we also sold 1000 count worms in the back of many magazines. This article in Boy’s live increased our business 5-fold. It is just a small article about how to build a worm bed but we had people calling us from all over the world. Those were the good ole days when the internet with young and I was too. 🙂
This one is an old article that helped build Wormman.com back in the 1990’s. Anyway, the instructions for composting with redworms are still good. 🙂
https://boyslife.org/hobbies-projects/projects/68/build-a-worm-bed/
Use 3 Types of Worms and One Type of Fly Larvae to Compost your Food Scraps and Garbage
Learn how to make your first composting bin for $5.
Compost indoors or outdoors year round.
…and more.
My name is Ken, I own Wormman.com, and I grow and sell bugs. I started my business in 1995 after growing a large amount of red worms to fill my garden with worm castings. I love to garden and I bought some worms out of the back of a classified ad in a magazine. I grew those worms by feeding them our food scraps and the manure from our bunnies. I was soon inundated with worms, so I created more worm bins and expanded my garden. At one point, I had so many worm bins and beds that it was almost uncontrollable. I showed my wife, who does not share my passion for gardening or insects, and she said “you bought worms from a magazine. There has to be more people like you out there. Sell the excess worms.” Genius! Why didn’t I think of that?
The Internet was brand new back then, so I dialed into America Online and found that I could get 5 free websites just for being an AOL member. Those weren’t responsive websites like we have today. In fact, it was a 3 page site. The main page listed what I wanted it to say and the other two pages were for contact info and biographical information. No shopping cart, no Facebook links, no social media at all because it did not exist yet.
The last 22 years have been a roller coaster. I built the business to a million dollars in sales per year, and then crashed it, fought through a cricket virus, a mealworm shortage, 9/11, and my own stupidity. (Scroll down for more...)
Check Our Our First Site and What AOL Looked and Sounded Like in Memory Lane:
I have written a book called Profitable Worm Manual. The information above and much more is in that book We will have it available for download soon. In the meantime, I wanted to offer you something free that I wish that I had when I started.
Basic Worm Composting Free Ebook:
Learn the basics of vermicomposting with this ebook. I cover the basics on raising Red Worms, European Nightcrawlers and African Nightcrawlers. I also cover composting with Black Soldier Fly Larvae. This ebook is yours free. Please download it here. I will also update you when my much bigger AND FREE 🙂 Profitable Worm Manual is released. I will also send you periodic worm farming news if you want it.
Thank you!!
Ken
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Invariably, no matter how faithful you are at guarding your worm bin, critters will get into your worm composting bin. Those critters run from harmless and benign to downright repulsive and harmful.
There are many critters that actually help your worm bin thrive.
Isopods and springtails are a couple of compost bin invaders that actually help break down food waste into nutrient rich worm and critter castings. They are good inhabitants and should be kept, if possible.
There there are the not so great worm composting bin critters. Those are bugs and mammals that attack worms, eat their cocoons or compete with them for food.
Some of those harmful pests of your compost bin are mice, rats, roaches moles, earwigs, mites, flies, centipedes roaches and ants and millipedes.
Kill roaches where you find them and remove the bin to an outdoor area immediately if they are found in your worm bin. Call a pest control specialist if you believe that you have roaches in your house. The worm bin most likely did not bring the roaches in. They were probably attracted to your worm bin because it was moist, warm and filled with things that they like to eat.
Mice and rats will feed on food in your composting bin and not usually the Redworms themselves. They will eat the food meant for the worms, they will tunnel through the worm bedding and they will use your composting bin covers as nesting material. There are humane traps on the market that can help you get rid of mice and rats.
Moles are also a major pain and they will invade your worm beds from the bottom, tunnel through the bed and feast on the worms. You will have to poison, trap or kill moles or you will lose your worms.
Millipedes and centipedes will eat small worms and cocoons. Smush them when you see them. The same goes for nasty earwigs. Have gloves on hand and smash them between your thumb and forefinger when you come across them in your worm composter.
Ants will also compete for food and they will carry the food away to their ant world.
Flies will not carry your worm bedding contents away but they will lay eggs in the worm compost bedding and the larvae will hatch and eat the food and make a stinking mess of your worm bin.
Pests are drawn to food. The only way to stop them is to keep your area clean, keep the worms indoors, or have a tight fitting lid on your worm beds/bins so that nothing can get into your worm bedding.
Practice common sense composting and keep your area open and clean. Debris provides hiding places for vermin and the vermin will then be attracted to your worm bin.